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A sommelier and chef head to northern B.C. to grow mushrooms

Mushroom growers turn personal consumption into commercial operation in Smithers, B.C.
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Golden oysters from Smithereens Mushrooms, a mushroom farm in Smithers B.C., started by Marie-Eve Arseneault and Alexis Galus. (Photo by Smithereens Mushrooms)

Fungus or not, the vegetable that grows out of composting matter is loaded with protein, vitamins, minerals and fibre. So what makes one suddenly want to start growing mushrooms?

French Canadian sommelier Marie-Eve Arseneault and French chef Alexis Galus began growing lion含羞草研究社檚 mane mushrooms in Smithers, B.C., for their own culinary and medicinal purposes; however, in 2020, a landslide closed the only road leading up to Smithers.

含羞草研究社淣o trucks or food trucks were coming up north 含羞草研究社 We realized that if something really big happened, we don含羞草研究社檛 have many [food producers] up north. And we were already growing for our own personal consumption, so we decided, well, let含羞草研究社檚 get going,含羞草研究社 Arseneault told Black Press Media.

The couple built a container farm on their property, allowing them to do everything from scratch 含羞草研究社 whether inoculating mushrooms or selling mycelium liquid cultures to other mushroom growers.

含羞草研究社淥ne of the things we thought about when building our farm is that mushrooms are a crop that can go bad quickly, so we thought, 含羞草研究社榳hat can we do not to put our products in the garbage?含羞草研究社櫤卟菅芯可鐫

So they added another container to the farm and built a kitchen, allowing them to process their mushrooms.

Along with being a food producer in the north, Arseneault said that vegetarians and vegans are growing in number, and mushrooms are becoming the centre of a plate, instead of a side. On average, they grow around 20 varieties of mushrooms, adding seasonal varieties depending on the climate the mushrooms like.

含羞草研究社淭he lion含羞草研究社檚 mane mushroom looks like your brain and tastes a bit like lobster or shrimp. When you cook it, it含羞草研究社檚 so versatile. You can pull it as pork or you can make crab cakes or cook it like a steak. Chestnut mushrooms have cute caps and are really crunchy. Black poplar is a little bit more nutty flavour.

含羞草研究社淲e含羞草研究社檙e definitely in the shroom boom,含羞草研究社 said Arseneault.

Arseneault and Galus met in Montreal含羞草研究社檚 restaurant industry before venturing to Whistler, B.C., in 2008. After Galus含羞草研究社 visa ran out in 2011, they headed to Australia, where they could finally learn English 含羞草研究社 as it turned out, Whistler was filled with Francophones.

The couple returned to Whistler in 2014, staying only briefly. A ski trip in Smithers convinced them to establish roots in the northern town by early 2015.

While the adventurous couple has had to slow down in terms of travelling, things continue to be busy.

含羞草研究社淢ushroom farming is like dairy farming. You have to be here every day, so it含羞草研究社檚 a pretty big change.含羞草研究社

The couple含羞草研究社檚 son, S枚ren Galus, who turns five this summer, helps out, too.

含羞草研究社淗e pretends to love mushrooms at the market, but he doesn含羞草研究社檛 like eating them,含羞草研究社 laughed Arseneault.

含羞草研究社淭he only thing I have been able to trick him with is the lion含羞草研究社檚 mane because it含羞草研究社檚 a little bit like tofu in many ways. So I含羞草研究社檝e been pretending it含羞草研究社檚 chicken and stuff.含羞草研究社

When the fruiting blocks are ready, which are a mix of hardwood pellets and soil, they turn white. This means the mushrooms have fully colonized the blocks. Next, they move from incubation to the fruiting room. Here, they can control the humidity, CO2 levels, airflow (changed every five to six minutes) and temperature, which is necessary in a climate where temperatures go from -40 C to 30 C seasonally.

含羞草研究社淔or example, the black pearl, if we give it too much humidity, it含羞草研究社檒l show signs of too much humidity, but another mushroom will love that amount.含羞草研究社

Cleanliness is a huge factor when it comes to mushroom growing. To help combat this, the walls in the facility are made of plastic panels. In addition, the fruiting room is deep cleaned once a week, with individual areas cleaned more often as needed.

After the fruiting room comes the kitchen, where fresh mushrooms are processed 含羞草研究社 dehydrated or perhaps turned into a mushroom risotto 含羞草研究社 and packaged before being sent to retailers or heading to the local farmers含羞草研究社 market.

The mushroom farm, licenced with the Canadian Food Inspection Agency, grows lion含羞草研究社檚 mane mushrooms, blue oysters, black pearls, turkey tails, chestnuts, golden mushrooms and more.

含羞草研究社淔or me, coming from the wine industry, where you always have something to learn, mushrooms are exactly the same,含羞草研究社 said Arseneault.

含羞草研究社淲e have so much to discover.含羞草研究社

Learn more about the mushroom farmers by visiting smithereensmushroom.com.

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Smithereens Mushroom grows mushrooms, with the fruiting room on the left and their commercial kitchen on the right. (Photo by Smithereens Mushrooms)
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Mother of pearl mushrooms from Smithereens Mushrooms, a mushroom farm in Smithers B.C., started by Marie-Eve Arseneault and Alexis Galus. (Photo by Smithereens Mushrooms)


Kim Kimberlin, Local Journalism Initiative

About the Author: Kim Kimberlin, Local Journalism Initiative

I joined Black Press Media in 2022, and have a passion for covering topics on women含羞草研究社檚 rights, 2SLGBTQIA+ and racial issues, mental health and the arts.
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