- Words by Jane Mundy Photography by Don Denton
We know that a good cook can serve up memories from faraway places or offer a ticket back to childhood.
If you含羞草研究社檙e craving currywurst like you once scarfed down in Berlin, a pretzel at Oktoberfest, schnitzel at a Michelin-star restaurant in Munich or spaetzle that your mother lovingly made, go directly to , where chef Maxime Durand will transport you to Deutschland and satisfy your cravings.
But don含羞草研究社檛 just take my word for it. Patron Duane Bell had only just returned from Austria and Germany when I met him at Eva含羞草研究社檚.
含羞草研究社淕ermans and Austrians take their schnitzel seriously, so I was shocked at how good it was at an eatery in Victoria,含羞草研究社� said Duane. 含羞草研究社淭he currywurst was so good that it took me back to the street stall in Berlin, and all four of us ordered seconds含羞草研究社攁s well as every appetizer on the menu.含羞草研究社�
Like most Austrians, Duane takes schnitzel seriously. 含羞草研究社淵ou can tell there含羞草研究社檚 a lot of pride behind this food, and combined with great service we are thrilled to discover this eatery含羞草研究社攎y German and Austrian tastebuds zing.含羞草研究社�
Eva含羞草研究社檚 menu is simple and spare, but the flavours are complex and the portions are big. For instance, Maxime adds 10 spices, perfectly balanced, to his currywurst, and ginormous schnitzels barely fit on the dinner plate. The breading is crisp and greaseless and the meat so tender. You含羞草研究社檒l find classic choices such as schweineschnitzel (German pork schnitzell), roesti and raclette, but with modern twists. Fresh, local produce and the eggplant schnitzel含羞草研究社攑repared sous vide with a side of rutabaga and sauerkraut含羞草研究社攚ill bring a vegetarian back for more. I will return for a plate of braised red cabbage alone.
You won含羞草研究社檛 know from the menu that almost everything, from schnitzels and spaetzle to pretzels and pickles, are haus-made at Eva含羞草研究社檚 and there含羞草研究社檚 even a smoker in the kitchen to smoke ham hocks and bacon, thanks to chef Maxime and his sous-chef Emile pulling double shifts.
One afternoon, I witnessed the pretzel prep. The dough is fermented overnight and chilled. Once about four dozen are shaped, they are dipped in an alkaline solution to caramelize the dough and proofed for half an hour before baking.
含羞草研究社淲e try to serve them hot-out-of-the-oven just before dinner time,含羞草研究社� Maxime explained.
And getting back to the currywurst, it含羞草研究社檚 classic Berlin street food, served with dollops of curried ketchup and potato chips. North America含羞草研究社檚 equivalent is the steamed, smothered hot dog at the hockey game or street stall含羞草研究社攂ut it含羞草研究社檚 way better. Just for starters, Maxime含羞草研究社檚 ingredients don含羞草研究社檛 include preservatives.
Naturally, there含羞草研究社檚 a decent beer selection at Eva含羞草研究社檚 with lager and pilsner on tap to wash down your wurst. And if you含羞草研究社檙e not starved for a full meal but want a snack with that stein anytime after 4 pm, go for the big and chewy, soft and twisty pretzel with mustard butter. But be warned: it含羞草研究社檚 addictive.
Breakfast is an important meal in Germany. There含羞草研究社檚 a German saying: Iss dein Fr眉hst眉ck wie ein Kaiser (eat your breakfast like a king), which at Eva含羞草研究社檚 refers to brunch; it will soon open for lunch as well.
Some items on the dinner menu are featured with a twist, such as schnitzel hollandaise and cured trout Benny with a mouth-watering sauerkraut pancake含羞草研究社攈old the bread.
The space itself is like the menu: small and unpretentious with a low-key vibe, whimsical d茅cor with a nod to a ski chalet and just enough kitsch on the walls.
You含羞草研究社檝e got to hand it to anyone opening a restaurant during the pandemic. Added to the fray, German food sometimes gets a bad rap, often perceived as heavy and stodgy: boiled sausages and potatoes and cabbage covered in cream and served by round men wearing lederhosen in beer halls. Austrian cuisine fares better perception-wise: considered more spa-like and sophisticated.
But when Victoria含羞草研究社檚 Rathskeller Schnitzel House said auf wiedersehen after half a century, there wasn含羞草研究社檛 much else in the city serving schnitzels and steins, and people crave comfort food in stressful times.
Chef Maxime, who previously helmed the kitchen at the award-winning Agrius, saw an opportunity. However, he says, it was nerve-wracking opening in November 2021 because nobody knew if the pandemic would get worse.
含羞草研究社淎t the same time, people wanted to experience something new, although we aren含羞草研究社檛 re-inventing the wheel. Sure, I have doubts sometimes when I wake up, but after a few beers they fade away, and questioning yourself is part of the learning experience,含羞草研究社� he said, laughing. 含羞草研究社淎s well, restaurant restrictions were lifting, so we had a bit of momentum right off the bat含羞草研究社攊t was like a slow opening and now we are ready for a busy summer.含羞草研究社�
Maxime chose not to deliver or offer take-out because 含羞草研究社渟chnitzel doesn含羞草研究社檛 travel well.含羞草研究社� Comfort food is a source of hearty, warming pleasure year-round and that is something you含羞草研究社檒l find at Eva Schnitzelhaus.
Story courtesy of , a Black Press Media publication
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